For Lake Garda, I elected to stay at the northern tip so that I could get over my jet lag against the wonderful backdrop of the Alps. For Lake Maggiore, I decided to stay in Stresa, near the southern tip of the lake. Much to my surprise I got a beautiful view of the Alps there too.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t good for the few days I was there. I only had one day of sunshine which I used to explore Isola Bella, famous for its palazzo and gardens that were home to the Borromeo family. Usually, in such places in England, you have a choice of whether you want to see the palace, or the gardens, or both. This being Italy, you only had one ticket that consisted of the palace and the gardens. The palace was predictably dreary with over-done furniture, too much bling, and gloomy rooms. I walked through it as quickly as my knee would allow me (am still recovering from a strained knee) until I got to the gardens, which were something else. Set against the backdrop of Lake Maggiore and the nearby Alps they were a delight to behold as the image illustrates.
The following day was May 1 and much to my surprise the woman who ran Hotel Du Parc in Stresa (where I was staying) suggested that I go on the Centi Valli tour, in which you take a train from Stresa to Domodossola, change onto a narrow-gauge railway that goes 1,400 feet up into the Alps before descending into Locarno Switzerland. Then you spend a few hours there before coming back to Stresa on the ferry.
It sounded like a wonderful idea. However, two things contributed to it being an exhausting, tedious day. First of all, a thunderstorm erupted, and it gushed buckets of rain. Secondly, it was May 1 in Europe, and although I should have known this, it didn’t occur to me that this tour would be offered when all of the shops in Domodossola Italy and Locarno Switzerland would be closed. I mean, why offer this tour, when you can’t do anything when you get there?
So instead of enjoying myself browsing charming boutiques, I had to while away my time inside the few cafes that were open (playing games on my iPhone) while I waited for the only ferry back to Stresa to leave. When it did leave it was, of course, on holiday hours which meant a tedious 3-hour journey across the lake in pouring rain, which ruined the view.
So, if you happen to be in Europe on May 1, contact your hotel or make plans to deal with the fact that you might have nothing to do!
